Ziffy pairs a pun-packed menu with dishes of varying levels of promise, all plated quite prettily. It’s another in the long line of Klang Valley’s ongoing cafe offerings and may well merit a visit if you’re in the area. We didn’t have anything spectacular during our visit but we do hope they continue working on the dishes.

Kota Damansara has come a long way from being a forest reserve. Now a melting pot for various gastronomic points of interest, in recent times it’s undergone a (dare I say gentrification) shift towards more than just local eateries. A short drive (misnomer, the traffic here is something else) through the lanes will showcase the sheer variety of food on display. Dim sum delights, Korean barbecue, modern takes on wantan mee, Melbourne brunch inspired cafes and this Foodgazer’s go-to Penang Nasi Kandar are just a few of the choice ingredients floating to the top of this stew of good eats.

Amidst all the noise is Ziffy, situated inside Sunway Nexis. The facade with all its geometric blocks lends a certain order to the chaos of Kota Damansara and walking in, the feeling of comfort further sinks in. Well-lit, the cafe is modern indeed with wood and metal co-existing in a sort of compromise between the two elements. Up the stairs sits a loft area which lends an air of privacy to caffeine consumers and brunch munchers alike. A little alcove sits at the back, where plans for live music nights are soon to take shape.

The brain-child of a Melbourne University alumni, Ziffy aims to bring to Kota Damansara all the cafe chic from the owner’s student days. Armed with 2 ex-Jibby & Co. cooks, the menu is a puntastic and varied range of brunchy food with local twists. If you’re taco-ing about Mexico, there are tacos and quesadillas. Their salad section is Inspiralized by many eclectic influences ranging from sensual Prawn Stars to the noble Roman Julius Caesar.

We start with some drinks. The Longan Mojito (RM13) is a sweet, light refreshing concoction that teases the palate with that green hit of lime with some longan skewers to go with it. Refreshing, although the longan doesn’t really shine through. Better is the Boss Mojito (RM13), a very interesting mixological concoction of coffee with shots of lime and mint. The combination is surprisingly balanced with the subtle nuances of the coffee being brought out by the lime, tempering the darker shades of the roast.

A trio arrives to save the Foodgaes from their incessant hunger pangs. Not quite Alexandre Dumas, Ziffy’s bao triple threat consists of 2 birds and their fishy friend, chivalrously defending your right to be free from hunger. First up to the tasting plate is the Duck, glazed with teriyaki sauce and sandwiched in between that fluffy bao. The texture of the meat here is quacking, moist and soft while retaining a good bite. Bound to please the local crowd with the sweet and salty interplay. Up next is Chicken, proudly Malaysian with its sweet sambal chili dressing. While the chicken here is well-cooked like the duck, the sauce here falls on the wrong side of sweet and, if not for the absorbent bao, would almost be cloying. Picking up the slack is the Fish, with its crispy batter, flaky meat and a flourish of mayo showing that simplicity can win the day. The best of the bunch in our Gazerly opinion.

There’s something about Mari... nara. Ziffy’s rendition of this ever-popular seafood pasta takes the heat up a notch to match our tropical weather. Two Prawn Stars (hehe) join the flavour orgy, lying temptingly over a bed of spaghetti, each strand slick and wet with passion… actually, marinara sauce. Damn, this has some good heat actually. The Foodgazers are in disagreement. One contends that this indeed is a good sauce, the other is again let down by that tinge of sweetness that slightly offsets the delicate balancing act. As we all know, positioning is of paramount importance in the industry in which these two crustaceans perform in. Mussel-bound fans surround the pasta pedestal upon which their objects of desire lay so seductively, beseeching them to pay notice. The Gazers don’t care. We eat all of them. They’re fresh and tasty. Did we mention that the spice here kicks? We did? Good.

The Salted Egg Chick (RM20) is a revamped, spruced-up version of a kopitiam and taichow favourite. Pieces of chicken coated in that addictive salted egg goodness rest above a vegetable medley. Ziffy up the ante by using Basmathi rice in place of the usual short or long grain. They do it right, the rice retaining its bite and providing a medium of transport from plate to palate to stomach. Alas, while the salted egg coating hits the right buttons with its savoury flavour hammer, the chicken inside is slightly dry and not quite up to par. Green is good, however, as the vegetables pick up the slack with crispy, fresh flavours. The peppers crunch well and have a pleasing sweetness.

And so the Foodgazing is done. Ziffy Cafe has potential. The food and drink are all prettily presented in neat, Instagram-worthy packages. When the flavours align, the food is interesting and tasty. Perhaps a bit more work on balancing the flavour profiles is needed. It’s a comfortable spot, as you can see from Yummy Yenchie above, planning his next bout of fat-assery. It’s pretty. There will be live music soon. They offer set lunches too. So! If ever you’re in Sunway Nexis and in search of a quiet spot for some reading, productive thinking or just to laze around away from the humidity, go to Ziffy. See you in a jiffy.

Ziffy Cafe

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Most classic pairings we see nowadays are rooted in the proximity of local ingredients to each other. Looking to Europe as an example, lamb has long been the staple meat of many of the major wine regions (see: Bordeaux, Greece, Rioja etc). This concept of terroir, the belief that the land itself imparts its characteristics onto the produce, means these classic pairings were more of what landed on the table from the day’s harvest or trip to the market. The rationale here being what grows together would probably taste good together.

So the Foodgazers found themselves in Persiaran Ampang on a Thursday night once again, this time for a wine tasting. Sapore is a relative newcomer among the established eateries on the street, specialising in Mediterranean fare with a focus on the Italian. This comes as no surprise as both Federico (who helms the kitchen) and Fabio (front of house) hail from Europe’s big boot. We were lucky enough to attend their inaugural wine night (2nd Thursday of every month), on which the focus was on the long term relationship between Italy’s cheese and wine.

First up, a thick slice of Parmigiano Reggiano (also known as Parmesan) arrives on the table. Hailing from the region of Reggio Emilia, the cheese has oft been called the King of Cheeses. A hard, dry cheese which is aged for a minimum of two years, we were served a slice from the 32 month old specimen on top of a pear slice. As one of the cheeses containing the highest concentration of glutamates (natural MSG), the crumbly texture gives way to a huge umami bomb. Instructed to crumble the cheese with our hands, we were taken aback by the sheer nutty savouriness as it melted slowly in the mouth. The pear slice delicately balanced the palate, cutting through the fat with its gentle acidity and fruitiness.

Paired with a glass of Villa Sandi Prosecco, a sparkling wine from Venice, the fresh fruity dryness of the wine was a great pairing for the cheese. Very floral on the nose with bites of crisp pear and notes of lemon on the finish which cut through the fatty richness of the Parmigiano. Even more interesting was the interplay between the cheese crystals and the wine on the tongue as they popped and fizzled with a bubbly effervescence, leaving the palate clean. Lovely stuff.

And so we move onto softer things with this washed-rind cheese from Val Tallegio. The aroma from this one was intoxicating, with a pungent barnyard earthiness arresting the senses. The unctuous (what a word), gooey texture of the cheese belied a creamy sweetness with just a hint of truffle towards the end. Accompanied by an apple marmalade whose sweetness further lifted the earthy notes. One of the favourites of the night.

The accompaniment this time a summery Tuscan white wine, straw-coloured with a heady floral bouquet. On the palate, bites of lemony apple finishing with a very curious almond twist. A very interesting flavour profile, especially that whiff of almonds at the end which matched the lingering aftertaste of the taleggio like a firm handshake between old friends. Spot on.

Pecorino refers to cheeses made from sheep’s milk, a famed example being  Pecorino Romano, the key ingredient in Roman pastas like carbonara or cacio e pepe. For our 3rd course of the night we were served its Tuscan cousin, a firm-textured ewe’s milk cheese. Milder than its more illustrious Roman counterpart, it still has that herbaceous, grassy aroma associated with sheep cheeses with a soft nutty flavour. The grapes here provided a good shot of acid to the proceedings and that rich walnut pesto could easily be eaten with a hearty bowl of pasta. Possibly the most interesting pairing of food ingredients that night.

Ah, Chianti. Made infamous by one Hannibal Lecter regarding its good pairing with liver and fava beans in Silence of the Lambs (excellent film and acting masterclass). A medium-bodied, high acid red wine that opens up with a nose full of red fruit. What follows is a dry flavour profile dominated by plum and dark fruit that lingers on the tongue. A great burst of grape that balances out the rich grassy flavours of the cheese. Easy drinking.

Blue cheeses are like the durian of the cheese world. To most Asians, the almost rotten pungency of the cheese is an acquired taste, dividing opinions like the King of Fruits. Fortunately, unlike durian, I love my blue cheese. This Italian gorgonzola doesn’t quite assault the senses with the same aggression as Roquefort or Stilton, but is still full of that deep, dark funk that consumes the senses. The richness is offset by the tart dried plums and the honey a soothing balm for a now well-exercised tongue. Chief Foodgazer found the honey here overly sweet but I mopped up the whole piece gladly.

A heavyweight cheese calls for a heavyweight wine and thus the final pairing was this strong Sicilian red. Full-bodied, a bit spicy on the nose with very dark fruit and vanilla tones. The palate opens up to more dark fruit, plums, hints of tobacco and vanilla spice. Smooth finish with a slight bitter aftertaste that helps cut through the sweet honey glaze. A good book-end to the pairings.

Complimentary house-made foccacia was served throughout. Light and airy with sundried tomatoes.

A bowl of aglio olio capped off the night, once again on the house. The spaghetti was perfectly al-dente and the aroma of garlic and olive oil was a great send-off. Perhaps a touch light on the salt to balance out all the cheesiness we endured.

All in all, a thoroughly entertaining affair with some quality Italian produce on display. Service was warm, attentive and given an intimate touch with the personal anecdotes from both Chef Federico and Fabio who explained each pairing in detail. Priced at RM108, great value to be had. For those interested in any forthcoming wine events at Sapore, they will be having a Spanish themed event which you can follow here as well as a night of Puglian cuisine. Till next time, the Foodgazers bid you arrivederci.

Sapore
18 Persiaran Ampang,
Off Jalan Ampang,
Kuala Lumpur
Daily, 2pm-1130pm
Tel: 03-4266-6362

The post When the cheese is divine and so is the wine – that’s Sapore appeared first on Foodgazer.

Does anyone find Publika confusing? Yeah, I’ve frequented the place enough during the early days of Barfly when the RM10 pints of Tiger had more beer than water. Yet I’m still unable to come to grips with the confusing layout of different blocks and oddly numbered floors. Why is UG in between G2 and G3? Why are the al fresco areas of Blocks A and B on a different level from C and D? Why is the carpark so labyrinthine in structure that Theseus would wish he was back in the Minotaur’s lair? Geez.

And so we found ourselves in Publika for yet another food review.

Tsubohachi Izakaya started off in Hokkaido and is now a large izakaya chain with over 300 outlets in Japan alone. An izakaya is an informal Japanese gastropub where hardworking salarymen gather after work for food and drink in a casual atmosphere. Much like Malaysians have our mamak culture, the Japanese default to cold beers and sake while the smell of yakitori on charcoal wafts into the air.

Stepping into Tsubohachi, the decor gives off a very Japanese vibe, all dark wood, Maneki-neko (that smiling waving cat) and samurai art. These hit me with a wave of nostalgia, reminding me of the Japanese restaurants I grew up with when I was but a chubby lad. But anyways, onto the food.

Our meal kicks off with some Gobo Chips. These are thinly sliced strips of burdock root, deep fried to a nice crispy texture. Apparently a very popular bar snack in Japan, it’s not hard to see why. The chips have a tinge of sweetness about them which contrasts nicely with the salt. An underlying earthiness provides a good foundation for the flavours to mingle. Best paired with a nice glass of Suntory Premium Malts or a not-so-modest pouring of sake. Shame they don’t do free refills.

A chirashi bowl follows suit.  Finely diced air-flown salmon is accompanied by cubes of avocado atop a bed of fluffy rice. Ubiquitous in most modern restaurants, a tale of two ingredients that seem practically made for each other. Japanese cucumber provides a nice textural crunch to contrast with the soft richness of the avo and salmon with some shredded egg thrown in for good measure. Good, satisfying rice bowl though a minor gripe would be that the avocado was slightly on the wrong side of ripe.

The kushimare plate arrives smelling of charcoal. To start with, a skewered chicken wing has good flavour but suffers from being a bit dry, lacking juiciness. Crispy chicken perks things up a little with a sinful savoury salty hit to the palate. The bacon wrapped enoki mushrooms further one-ups the umami because bacon makes everything better (except heart disease). We hit a slight speed bump with the negima (chicken thigh and leek) in a curious role reversal where the thigh is plump and juicy but underseasoned. The best skewer of the night was the pork belly and leek, the fat well-rendered and kissed by charcoal, melting in the mouth.

Unfortunately, we hit a big speed bump with the teriyaki fish roll. Described as a duo of maguro and buri rolled into a maki with teriyaki sauce, it was cloyingly sweet. The flavours of the fish drowned in by an overgenerous pouring of sauce. The rice here was mush and the roll lacked any sort of texture. What do you think, Simon? No, no, no, NO. Not for me, Paula. I’m not feeling it either, dawg. Back to the drawing board.

In comes bacon once again to save the day. Wrapping itself around its able sidekick, mozzarella cheese, bacon is then coated in panko breadcrumbs and deep fried. The result is a nice little croquette with a crisp exterior and a molten gooey centre. Could have used another skewer of these. Maybe 4. The chikuwa mentai kushi-age (Japanese fish cake and cod roe) has much of the same toothsome bite as its porcine cousin but was relatively non-descript. The fish cake itself tasted alright but didn’t do much to stand out. Neither could we taste the cod roe which is a damn shame. If you haven’t had mentai over hot steamed rice, you are sorely missing out.

At this point, the meal starts drifting away from the cholesterol overload and into more delicate territory.

Tsubohachi’s signature is Buta Hakusai Nabe. Thin slices of pork belly are hidden in the layers of a cabbage millefeuille and stewed. Unlike the first half of the meal, the flavours here are more subtle with emphasis put on the balance and harmony of taste. The savoury, tender slices of belly are balanced out by the inherent sweetness of the cabbage which in turn has imparted its flavour into the broth. Almost zenlike. Tsubohachi’s menu description helpfully points out that a nice porridge can be made by adding a bowl of rice to the broth but we decided to leave some room for the remaining dishes.

Next up, the Chanko Nabe. The yin to the Buta Hakusai’s yang, the main protein in this case being chicken cooked in a claypot. We see our friend, gobo (burdock root), from the beginning of the meal make a return, this time lending a herbal earthiness to the stew. Reminiscent of Chinese herbal chicken, this was a bowl of soothing familiar.

Things take a slightly Korean bent with the Ontama Buta Kimchi. Although more often associated with their neighbours, Korea, the Japanese too are fond of their pickled vege. A sizzling teppan arrives on the table, filling the air with the unmistakable aroma of fermented cabbage, tickling the salivary glands. More pork belly (no complaints here) is stir fried along with the kimchi topped by the crowning glory of a spring egg. The folks as Tsubohachi are clear believers in freedom of choice as the menu notes that one can either enjoy the sauce made from the runny yolk or let it crisp up in the teppan for a fried egg. Being yolk fiends that we are, we not-so-gently break the yolk up and mix everything together. The kimchi spice cuts through the belly fat while the yolk is a rich sauce that coats each mouthful with eggy goodness.

Inspired by icy mountain water flowing through bamboo pipes, a circulating ice bath adds a bit of theatre to our meal. A trio of noodles: soba, chasoba and somen are the main elements of Tsubohachi’s Nagashi Somen Setto. Diners have a choice of dipping their noodles in the ice bath to give them a good icy shock for that nice bite or dumping them inside to try and fish them out. Needless to say the whole affair soon descended into a flurry of chopsticks and laughter. A side of ebi tempura, freshly fried, provided a good contrast with their crunchy batter. Mixed fruits served as a nice palate cleanser and segue into the final part of the meal.

Suton Aisu, a Japanisation of Stone Ice Cream, is a brightly coloured thing. Frozen berries catch the eye in vivid shades of red atop a scoop of vanilla ice-cream. We again follow the instructions on the menu and crush the butter biscuits against the walls of the stone bowl before mixing everything up into something a bit like an Eton Mess. The sweet acidity from the berries here heightened the richness of the vanilla ice cream while the biscuits added a good crunch. A real good mix of flavour and texture and a great way to end the meal.

Overall, our meal at Tsubohachi was a satisfying one. Simple, izakaya style fare that is fuss-free in a cozy environment. Not to mention the value to be had at this price point. Well worth skipping the queues at other more famous (and extremely average) Japanese restaurant chains in the Klang Valley. Till next time! Now, where did I park my car…

Tsubohachi Izakaya
A2-UG1-9 Solaris Dutaamas,
No 1 Jalan Dutamas,
Jalan Solaris,
50480 Hartamas Heights,
Kuala Lumpur

P.S. Want to see our latest on-the-go updates and preview of places before our full blog posts go up? Follow us on Instagram at @foodgazerrr or on our Facebook page! 

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Looks dingy but don’t be fooled – prepare yourself for some culinary delights here. Sebastian’s brings South America to Malaysia in a delicious manner, and it’s one of our favourite little finds.

Sebastian’s sits unassumingly down the row from the more famous occupants of Persiaran Ampang. The facade is a glass and wood affair, inviting patrons to look beyond the rather modest surface. Having arrived a little before 7 in the evening on a Thursday, the shutters were half-closed. A quick query to the waitress inside informed us that Sebastian’s operates a rather interesting set of opening hours from 7pm to 3am. After a short wait, we finally step inside.

The first impressions of the decor might strike one as dingy, what with the narrow layout. All that soon fades as a vague comfort replaces our initial misgivings. A wood-paneled bar is the centrepiece and base of operations, regulars sitting up familiarly against it. For most part, the decor stays relatively in line with the facade, lending the bar a rustic air. Hints of Latin America dot the otherwise old-timey landscape. A Venezuelan flag hangs in the corner above from a piano in a show of patriotism. The left wall is a display of contemporary art, all bold brush patterns and vivid colours. Eccentric pieces of art catch the eye as it pours over the landscape. The contrast somehow meshes together old and new, giving a quirky personality to the place. Jazzy tunes from South America play over the speaker, with the occasional diversion into more rock-n-roll territory.

Sebastian’s is the brainchild of 3 Venezuelan brothers: the eponymous head honcho and founder, Sebastian; Memo, bartender and front-of-house; and Vladimir, the man in the kitchen. Memo approaches our table with the menu. Thursday, he tells us, is Empanada Night. For those who have not had the pleasure of eating these delicious things, Empanadas are pretty much the Latin cousin of the curry puff with crusts made from either wheat, plantain, cassava or corn. Every Thursday, Venezuelan celebrity chef Tamara Rodriguez plans a gastronomic trek across South America through regional varieties of stuffed pastry. The journey, may I say, is quite exhilarating.

These are not your auntie’s curry puffs. A basket of 5 empanadas lands on our table, each an ambassador of a South American locale. Tamara rotates the selection week to week, so one can always find a different diplomat to schmooze with. Their entourage comes in the form of a trio of dipping sauces: a creamy avacado mayonnaise, a peanut sauce with a great textural crunch (our personal fave) and a chili oil like sauce, intense in flavour.

Firstly, we start with the Argentinean empanada. Filled with ground beef, boiled egg and olive, the earthy beefiness and umami is tempered well by the heat of the chilli oil. Colombia follows in the form of a cassava-based crust, starchy with a hint of sweet, in which a molten centre of cheese hides. Chef Tamara tells us that traditionally they would use a Colombian queso instead of the standard cheeses. Nonetheless, it is excellent. Next up, Venezuela is all chicken and avacado mayo, a creamy savoury delight. Not to be outdone, Peru gives us a stunner of aji di gallina and tiger’s milk, a blend of traditional Peruvian chicken stew and the milky citrus marinade used in ceviche. Rounding things off, we return to Argentina, where the cheekily named Maradonna greets us in a cheesy pool of corn and brisket. Wonderful, heart-warming wholesome food.

A beverage related aside: The house pouring for the night is a Cabernet Sauvignon from Chile. Excellent value at RM21 for a generous glass, full bodied with a slight hint of acidity. Easy on the palate with a surprising complexity, we could have had a bottle. By we, I mean me and my potential descent into full-on alcoholism. But I digress.

The regular menu is concise, with an offering of bar snacks and appetisers followed by about a half-dozen mains. The pork loin with raspberry sauce catches our eye. As does the stingray lasagna, which is no combination we’ve ever heard of, making it a must order. Alas, as the kitchen are in the midst of rolling out a new menu, both were out of stock.

Instead, this traditional Venezuelan dish filled the void. A ubiquitous rice and beans dish some consider the national dish of Venezuela, this was served with pulled beef and a side of fried plantains (tajadas). The rice itself is excellent, each grain separate with a good al-dente bite. Butter coats each grain, rendering it a sinful, pillowy comfort. Black beans come well-cooked, not too mushy, with an earthiness to bring you back down from the buttery ecstasy. But, the star of the dish is clearly the fried plantains. There’s just something in the frying process that extracts such an intense savoury sweetness from the fruit, an utterly beguiling and addictive snack. Shame they aren’t offered as a bar snack. Unfortunately, the beef while well-seasoned was dry, almost crying out for an extra sauce element.

And onto the next one! A lightly battered white fish was excellently cooked, the flesh still moist and flaky. Accompanied again by that pillowy heaven of rice (take that, mediocre briyani everywhere) this time with a fresh salad providing counterpoint. The fresh, bright juiciness of the tomatoes lifted the salad even higher. But, let’s get to the point: this dish is all about that sauce. Ah, the sauce. Look at how it glistens. Pieces of shrimp and mussels lay atop the fish, almost like a garnish, no doubt used to infuse the sauce with its deep, briny oceanic flavour. The silken, velvety texture is enough to make one enact a musical rendition of the Little Mermaid. Leftover rice from the Pabellon provided a perfect vehicle for mopping up the last dregs of this intense liquid. Delicious.

We skipped dessert, mostly due to us feeling like we were in our third trimester.

All in all, Persiaran Ampang may have the heavyweights like La Risata, Las Carretas and the more recent addition of Flint but overlook Sebastian’s at your own risk. A cozy little bar where you can walk in for a quiet drink or five with a friend accompanied by some of the brave flavours of South America. Yes, there’s nothing wrong with sticking to the regular old Italian favourites or Mexican standards. But to skip out on a relative rarity in Malaysian’s restaurant scene? It’s your loss, mi pana.

Sebastian’s Gastro Bar
32, Persiaran Ampang Hilir,
Taman U Thant 55000
Kuala Lumpur

Opening hours: 7pm to 3am daily

P.S. Want to see our latest on-the-go updates and preview of places before our full blog posts go up? Follow us on Instagram at @foodgazerrr or on our Facebook page! 

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