Most classic pairings we see nowadays are rooted in the proximity of local ingredients to each other. Looking to Europe as an example, lamb has long been the staple meat of many of the major wine regions (see: Bordeaux, Greece, Rioja etc). This concept of terroir, the belief that the land itself imparts its characteristics onto the produce, means these classic pairings were more of what landed on the table from the day’s harvest or trip to the market. The rationale here being what grows together would probably taste good together.

So the Foodgazers found themselves in Persiaran Ampang on a Thursday night once again, this time for a wine tasting. Sapore is a relative newcomer among the established eateries on the street, specialising in Mediterranean fare with a focus on the Italian. This comes as no surprise as both Federico (who helms the kitchen) and Fabio (front of house) hail from Europe’s big boot. We were lucky enough to attend their inaugural wine night (2nd Thursday of every month), on which the focus was on the long term relationship between Italy’s cheese and wine.

First up, a thick slice of Parmigiano Reggiano (also known as Parmesan) arrives on the table. Hailing from the region of Reggio Emilia, the cheese has oft been called the King of Cheeses. A hard, dry cheese which is aged for a minimum of two years, we were served a slice from the 32 month old specimen on top of a pear slice. As one of the cheeses containing the highest concentration of glutamates (natural MSG), the crumbly texture gives way to a huge umami bomb. Instructed to crumble the cheese with our hands, we were taken aback by the sheer nutty savouriness as it melted slowly in the mouth. The pear slice delicately balanced the palate, cutting through the fat with its gentle acidity and fruitiness.

Paired with a glass of Villa Sandi Prosecco, a sparkling wine from Venice, the fresh fruity dryness of the wine was a great pairing for the cheese. Very floral on the nose with bites of crisp pear and notes of lemon on the finish which cut through the fatty richness of the Parmigiano. Even more interesting was the interplay between the cheese crystals and the wine on the tongue as they popped and fizzled with a bubbly effervescence, leaving the palate clean. Lovely stuff.

And so we move onto softer things with this washed-rind cheese from Val Tallegio. The aroma from this one was intoxicating, with a pungent barnyard earthiness arresting the senses. The unctuous (what a word), gooey texture of the cheese belied a creamy sweetness with just a hint of truffle towards the end. Accompanied by an apple marmalade whose sweetness further lifted the earthy notes. One of the favourites of the night.

The accompaniment this time a summery Tuscan white wine, straw-coloured with a heady floral bouquet. On the palate, bites of lemony apple finishing with a very curious almond twist. A very interesting flavour profile, especially that whiff of almonds at the end which matched the lingering aftertaste of the taleggio like a firm handshake between old friends. Spot on.

Pecorino refers to cheeses made from sheep’s milk, a famed example being  Pecorino Romano, the key ingredient in Roman pastas like carbonara or cacio e pepe. For our 3rd course of the night we were served its Tuscan cousin, a firm-textured ewe’s milk cheese. Milder than its more illustrious Roman counterpart, it still has that herbaceous, grassy aroma associated with sheep cheeses with a soft nutty flavour. The grapes here provided a good shot of acid to the proceedings and that rich walnut pesto could easily be eaten with a hearty bowl of pasta. Possibly the most interesting pairing of food ingredients that night.

Ah, Chianti. Made infamous by one Hannibal Lecter regarding its good pairing with liver and fava beans in Silence of the Lambs (excellent film and acting masterclass). A medium-bodied, high acid red wine that opens up with a nose full of red fruit. What follows is a dry flavour profile dominated by plum and dark fruit that lingers on the tongue. A great burst of grape that balances out the rich grassy flavours of the cheese. Easy drinking.

Blue cheeses are like the durian of the cheese world. To most Asians, the almost rotten pungency of the cheese is an acquired taste, dividing opinions like the King of Fruits. Fortunately, unlike durian, I love my blue cheese. This Italian gorgonzola doesn’t quite assault the senses with the same aggression as Roquefort or Stilton, but is still full of that deep, dark funk that consumes the senses. The richness is offset by the tart dried plums and the honey a soothing balm for a now well-exercised tongue. Chief Foodgazer found the honey here overly sweet but I mopped up the whole piece gladly.

A heavyweight cheese calls for a heavyweight wine and thus the final pairing was this strong Sicilian red. Full-bodied, a bit spicy on the nose with very dark fruit and vanilla tones. The palate opens up to more dark fruit, plums, hints of tobacco and vanilla spice. Smooth finish with a slight bitter aftertaste that helps cut through the sweet honey glaze. A good book-end to the pairings.

Complimentary house-made foccacia was served throughout. Light and airy with sundried tomatoes.

A bowl of aglio olio capped off the night, once again on the house. The spaghetti was perfectly al-dente and the aroma of garlic and olive oil was a great send-off. Perhaps a touch light on the salt to balance out all the cheesiness we endured.

All in all, a thoroughly entertaining affair with some quality Italian produce on display. Service was warm, attentive and given an intimate touch with the personal anecdotes from both Chef Federico and Fabio who explained each pairing in detail. Priced at RM108, great value to be had. For those interested in any forthcoming wine events at Sapore, they will be having a Spanish themed event which you can follow here as well as a night of Puglian cuisine. Till next time, the Foodgazers bid you arrivederci.

Sapore
18 Persiaran Ampang,
Off Jalan Ampang,
Kuala Lumpur
Daily, 2pm-1130pm
Tel: 03-4266-6362

The post When the cheese is divine and so is the wine – that’s Sapore appeared first on Foodgazer.

Looks dingy but don’t be fooled – prepare yourself for some culinary delights here. Sebastian’s brings South America to Malaysia in a delicious manner, and it’s one of our favourite little finds.

Sebastian’s sits unassumingly down the row from the more famous occupants of Persiaran Ampang. The facade is a glass and wood affair, inviting patrons to look beyond the rather modest surface. Having arrived a little before 7 in the evening on a Thursday, the shutters were half-closed. A quick query to the waitress inside informed us that Sebastian’s operates a rather interesting set of opening hours from 7pm to 3am. After a short wait, we finally step inside.

The first impressions of the decor might strike one as dingy, what with the narrow layout. All that soon fades as a vague comfort replaces our initial misgivings. A wood-paneled bar is the centrepiece and base of operations, regulars sitting up familiarly against it. For most part, the decor stays relatively in line with the facade, lending the bar a rustic air. Hints of Latin America dot the otherwise old-timey landscape. A Venezuelan flag hangs in the corner above from a piano in a show of patriotism. The left wall is a display of contemporary art, all bold brush patterns and vivid colours. Eccentric pieces of art catch the eye as it pours over the landscape. The contrast somehow meshes together old and new, giving a quirky personality to the place. Jazzy tunes from South America play over the speaker, with the occasional diversion into more rock-n-roll territory.

Sebastian’s is the brainchild of 3 Venezuelan brothers: the eponymous head honcho and founder, Sebastian; Memo, bartender and front-of-house; and Vladimir, the man in the kitchen. Memo approaches our table with the menu. Thursday, he tells us, is Empanada Night. For those who have not had the pleasure of eating these delicious things, Empanadas are pretty much the Latin cousin of the curry puff with crusts made from either wheat, plantain, cassava or corn. Every Thursday, Venezuelan celebrity chef Tamara Rodriguez plans a gastronomic trek across South America through regional varieties of stuffed pastry. The journey, may I say, is quite exhilarating.

These are not your auntie’s curry puffs. A basket of 5 empanadas lands on our table, each an ambassador of a South American locale. Tamara rotates the selection week to week, so one can always find a different diplomat to schmooze with. Their entourage comes in the form of a trio of dipping sauces: a creamy avacado mayonnaise, a peanut sauce with a great textural crunch (our personal fave) and a chili oil like sauce, intense in flavour.

Firstly, we start with the Argentinean empanada. Filled with ground beef, boiled egg and olive, the earthy beefiness and umami is tempered well by the heat of the chilli oil. Colombia follows in the form of a cassava-based crust, starchy with a hint of sweet, in which a molten centre of cheese hides. Chef Tamara tells us that traditionally they would use a Colombian queso instead of the standard cheeses. Nonetheless, it is excellent. Next up, Venezuela is all chicken and avacado mayo, a creamy savoury delight. Not to be outdone, Peru gives us a stunner of aji di gallina and tiger’s milk, a blend of traditional Peruvian chicken stew and the milky citrus marinade used in ceviche. Rounding things off, we return to Argentina, where the cheekily named Maradonna greets us in a cheesy pool of corn and brisket. Wonderful, heart-warming wholesome food.

A beverage related aside: The house pouring for the night is a Cabernet Sauvignon from Chile. Excellent value at RM21 for a generous glass, full bodied with a slight hint of acidity. Easy on the palate with a surprising complexity, we could have had a bottle. By we, I mean me and my potential descent into full-on alcoholism. But I digress.

The regular menu is concise, with an offering of bar snacks and appetisers followed by about a half-dozen mains. The pork loin with raspberry sauce catches our eye. As does the stingray lasagna, which is no combination we’ve ever heard of, making it a must order. Alas, as the kitchen are in the midst of rolling out a new menu, both were out of stock.

Instead, this traditional Venezuelan dish filled the void. A ubiquitous rice and beans dish some consider the national dish of Venezuela, this was served with pulled beef and a side of fried plantains (tajadas). The rice itself is excellent, each grain separate with a good al-dente bite. Butter coats each grain, rendering it a sinful, pillowy comfort. Black beans come well-cooked, not too mushy, with an earthiness to bring you back down from the buttery ecstasy. But, the star of the dish is clearly the fried plantains. There’s just something in the frying process that extracts such an intense savoury sweetness from the fruit, an utterly beguiling and addictive snack. Shame they aren’t offered as a bar snack. Unfortunately, the beef while well-seasoned was dry, almost crying out for an extra sauce element.

And onto the next one! A lightly battered white fish was excellently cooked, the flesh still moist and flaky. Accompanied again by that pillowy heaven of rice (take that, mediocre briyani everywhere) this time with a fresh salad providing counterpoint. The fresh, bright juiciness of the tomatoes lifted the salad even higher. But, let’s get to the point: this dish is all about that sauce. Ah, the sauce. Look at how it glistens. Pieces of shrimp and mussels lay atop the fish, almost like a garnish, no doubt used to infuse the sauce with its deep, briny oceanic flavour. The silken, velvety texture is enough to make one enact a musical rendition of the Little Mermaid. Leftover rice from the Pabellon provided a perfect vehicle for mopping up the last dregs of this intense liquid. Delicious.

We skipped dessert, mostly due to us feeling like we were in our third trimester.

All in all, Persiaran Ampang may have the heavyweights like La Risata, Las Carretas and the more recent addition of Flint but overlook Sebastian’s at your own risk. A cozy little bar where you can walk in for a quiet drink or five with a friend accompanied by some of the brave flavours of South America. Yes, there’s nothing wrong with sticking to the regular old Italian favourites or Mexican standards. But to skip out on a relative rarity in Malaysian’s restaurant scene? It’s your loss, mi pana.

Sebastian’s Gastro Bar
32, Persiaran Ampang Hilir,
Taman U Thant 55000
Kuala Lumpur

Opening hours: 7pm to 3am daily

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The post Sebastian’s Gastro Bar – Venezuelan Persuasion appeared first on Foodgazer.